Menswear 2013: Rise of the Classically Dressed Gentleman

Posted on March 9, 2013

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Last month, New York Times T magazine celebrated The Rise of the Well-Dressed Man and in their op-ed piece welcomed us all to the age of sartorial enlightenment. I agree with the premise but disagree with their assertion that Joe Namath was metrosexual avant la lettre. In fact if anything, his “wooly pecs” and “dense happy trail” categorically disqualifies him as a metrosexual. He was an alpha male through and through- the metrosexual is dead. Today, the media landscape is filled with paragons of men’s style thanks to Mad Men, the waistcoat and blazer sporting Mentalist, prohibition Boardwalk Empires and White Collar criminals. Long live the alpha male.

Even if he did like his fur and shearling, by virtue of his body hair and comfort in his un-groomed primal sexuality, he's no metro, he's 100% hetro.

Even if Joe Namath did like his fur and shearling, by virtue of his body hair and comfort in his un-groomed primal sexuality, he’s no metro, he’s 100% hetro.

Classically dressed men and menswear 2013

David Gandy was a refreshing about turn from the anorexic downright androgynous men from the era of Heidi Slimane and his atrocious skinny lapel blazers. Don’t get me wrong, fit maketh the man but skinny belongs on women and jeggings, not real men. Gandy, the face of Massimo Dutti menswear for spring summer 2013 could don a mink coat and still look like the alpha he is just by the power of his permanent stubble and unkempt eyebrows.

Massimo Dutti

David Gandy fronts Massimo Dutti's 2013 campaign with classic colors like black, brown and navy blues.

David Gandy fronts Massimo Dutti’s 2013 campaign with classic colors like black, brown and navy blues.

Confident in his masculinity, David gets playful by throwing pastels into the mix.

Confident in his masculinity, David gets playful by throwing pastels into the mix.

Bergdorf Goodman men’s collection

If anything, the good people at Bergdorf Goodman have proven that well Mad Men style is alive and healthy, the classically dressed gentleman shouldn’t be afraid to put colour in his sartorial arsenal.

Left: Brunello Cucinelli three-roll-two button suit in gray plaid and blue windowpane wool with flat-front trousers. Right: Ermenegildo Zegna two-button suit in light gray herringbone and gray windowpane wool/silk with flat-front trousers.

Left: Brunello Cucinelli three-roll-two button suit in gray plaid and blue windowpane wool with flat-front trousers. Right: Ermenegildo Zegna two-button suit in light gray herringbone and gray windowpane wool/silk with flat-front trousers.

Patterns are back- the masculine check. Here on this Isaia two-button sport jacket in brown/ivory mini- check wool/silk/linen (left). Kiton in two-button sport jacket in RASPBERRY plaid cashmere/linen/silk.

Patterns are back- the masculine check. Here on this Isaia two-button sport jacket in brown/ivory mini- check wool/silk/linen (left). Kiton in two-button sport jacket in RASPBERRY plaid cashmere/linen/silk.

Brioni Spring Summer

The gentlemen of Brioni heat things up a notch with colour, a return to well fitted looks and coloured stone stud accessories once the domain of the fairer sex.

Getting tailored is back in a big way and men's haberdashers like Brioni are well poised to welcome men who care about what they put on.

Getting tailored is back in a big way and men’s haberdashers like Brioni are well poised to welcome men who care about what they put on.

The Brioni men avoid the sometimes "funereal" Downton Abbey monotones and embrace pastels this summer.

The Brioni men avoid the sometimes “funereal” Downton Abbey monotones and embrace not just pastels but even bold paisley and floral prints this summer.

Austin Reed

Serving as consultants to the likes of Sir Winston Churchill- THE British Bulldog and PM to lead a nation against Nazis (as alpha as it gets) and rock and rollers The Beetles, Austin Reed comes with a lot of heritage even they have modernised into a men’s outfitter to serve the working class needs of English commuters. This spring, Austin Reed is in fine form with classic British tailoring with a three piece. The waistcoat is noteworthy- traditional hoof-cut reminiscent of Edwardian tailoring.

Left: Austin Reed Grey Jacket £375 Grey Waistcoat £175 White Oxford Shirt £69.90 Grey Trouser £120. Right: Austin Reed CUT Blue Puppytooth Jacket with White Oxford Shirt and CUT Navy Crisp Trouser.

Left: Austin Reed Grey Jacket £375 Grey Waistcoat £175 White Oxford Shirt £69.90 Grey Trouser £120. Right: Austin Reed CUT Blue Puppytooth Jacket with White Oxford Shirt and CUT Navy Crisp Trouser.

Let’s hope the world is ready to accept us as we are again- hair, muscles and suits.

 

Posted in: men's style