Two time nominee and third time Council of Fashion Designers of America Menswear winner Michael Bastian’s Spring 2016 RTW (ready to wear) line embodies his signature uptown preppy aesthetic. Like Tom Ford, Bastian was away of the increasing “feminisation” of men’s style, adopting old shopping habits long the domain of women and a penchant for cult designer […]
June 4, 2015
In The Book of the Courtier, Baldassare Castiglione defines Sprezzatura as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it”. In essence, it’s purpose was to heighten the perception of the talents of a courtier in accomplishing […]
June 1, 2014
Just because it says “Black tie” doesn’t mean you have to dress in traditional penguin tuxedo. The key is understanding the rationale behind the black tie dresscode. General interpretation is that when the invite states “black tie”, the implication is that it’s a formal affair, requiring gentlemanly elegance in posh surrounds. Still, while every man should own […]
September 1, 2013
In 1898, a 16 year old man would live his township of San Michele in Bosco and make his way to Turin in order to continue a long family tradition of Bianchi men (Paride, his father and Giuliano, his grandfather) entering the tailoring trade. I’m talking about Luigi Bianchi who like his sons aEdgardo and […]
August 9, 2013
Apologies, I’ve been busy with yet another stylish magazine; This print + web publication called The Millenary aims to put the world of haute horlogerie in context, that is- luxury watch collecting with all the other sartorial accessories that go with it. That said, my mind never strayed too far away from my other passion- this […]
April 13, 2013
Bespoke has been thoroughly abused as a marketing term, as a result, even newer less knowledgeable tailors misuse (I hope) the term and use it interchangeably with “made to measure”. For gentlemen, the art of suit construction is not to be taken lightly, coming from a long tradition of Savile Row artisans, the creation of […]
March 9, 2013
Last month, New York Times T magazine celebrated The Rise of the Well-Dressed Man and in their op-ed piece welcomed us all to the age of sartorial enlightenment. I agree with the premise but disagree with their assertion that Joe Namath was metrosexual avant la lettre. In fact if anything, his “wooly pecs” and “dense happy trail” categorically […]
March 3, 2013
There have been a couple of classically styled menswear outfitters coming up within the last 5 years- all beyond Savile Row. I see that as more a reflection of the Row’s revival and the return of the well dressed man- these two events have led to the rise of reinterpreted classic men’s suit haberdashers like […]
February 27, 2013
SuitSupply SS 2013 “If one can’t raise one’s hands above one’s head, it tends to inhibit any impulsive acts of surrender.” – Guy Singer, Tailor-Conman, The Bank Job I did an extensive review of SuitSupply for The Rake months ago- as far as I’m concerned, these guys offer fine suits with luxurious fabrics from loro […]
September 3, 2012
It’s hard to believe how Hackett London began from a small store on King’s Road, London Chelsea to the now nascent quintessentially british brand right next to Burberry. From once selling used sorry, vintage clothing to now, a sartorial atelier in it’s own right, Hackett London is in my opinion, the British off the rack answer […]
August 28, 2015
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