Watchmaking: Kari Voutilainen Vingt-8R

Posted on April 19, 2013

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It’s hard to believe it’s been almost 2 years since independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen created a manufacture movement that revolutionised watching by using two escape wheels to engage the balance thereby reducing wear and energy consumption versus the usual lever escapement.

Thus it came to pass in 2011 that the calibre 28 movement would find a home within the classic Voutilainen Vingt-8. Timeless elegance through classical guilloche dial, a mesmerising wicker pattern in the centre of the dial and paired with Breguet style hands, the ultimate fashion-proof men’s watch was created.Two years later and a power reserve indicator later, Kari Voutilainen’s 2013 watchmaking opus is the Vingt-8R.

An additional power reserve indicator is featured on the Vingt-8R.

An additional power reserve indicator is featured on the Vingt-8R.

Limited Edition: Voutilainen Vingt-8R

Like it’s Vingt-8 (or 20-8) predecessor, all signature hallmark elements like Breguet hands, applied Arabic numerals at 3 o’clock, 9 o’clock and noon while subsidiary seconds display running at 6- all appear on the Vingt-8R. With the addition of the power reserve indicator, Voutilainen has managed to keep the dial uncluttered by electing not to rose-engine lathe a guilloche dial this time but keep to a uniform “radial wave” pattern emanating from the centre of the dial. Also, the clou de paris pattern for sub-seconds register has replaced by the basket-weave.

228 components in this calibre, a 70 component jump over the predecessor calibre 28 movement.

228 components in this calibre, a 70 component jump over the predecessor calibre 28 movement.

25 piece limited edition luxury timepiece retains the sapphire caseback with which to view the two escapement wheels giving direct impulse to the balance with four regulator extenders. A fine detail to keep an eye out for is the rose-gold balance weights on the rim- such  fine details and here I thought the rose-gold accented gears interspersed with german silver plates and bridges were the most finely crafted calibre I had ever seen but Kari Voutilainen has outdone himself with the Vingt-8R – gilt touched 4N18 GOLD plating.

Hacking movement and Maltese cross system are some of the additions present in Kari Voutilainen's Vingt-8R this 2013.

Hacking movement and Maltese cross system are some of the additions present in Kari Voutilainen’s Vingt-8R this 2013.

Besides the power reserve, a hacking system for precision time-setting was added and while power reserve is down 1 hour from 50, it’s because of the new Maltese cross system which keeps constant power for the full 49 hours providing similar benefit as Zenith’s fusee-chain system.

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Posted in: watches