Apologies, I’ve been busy with yet another stylish magazine; This print + web publication called The Millenary aims to put the world of haute horlogerie in context, that is- luxury watch collecting with all the other sartorial accessories that go with it. That said, my mind never strayed too far away from my other passion- this blog. In the couple of months that I’ve been away, the world of menswear and men’s fashion has seen an epic return to base classical looks (with the exception of Thom Browne). For menswear Spring Summer 2014, Gucci designed a capsule collection with Lapo Elkann– a quintessentially Italian wardrobe infused with Lapo’s flair for that elusive thing known as ‘sprezzetura’. I present:

Lapo’s Wardrobe

While I respect the English cut and all the sombre heritage that comes with getting a suit from Savile Row, there remains a kind of distinct romance with Italian men’s fashion. Sartorially, Italian men come across as roguish, dangerous and I dare say, fun. If the English suit is analogous to officers and gentlemen, the Italian cut suit is decidedly a dilettante lothario- and haven’t we all read that “ladies love bad boys”?

Setting aside the fact that Lapo was once found comatose from an overdose at a transexual’s apartment, his predatory vibe, look-at-me dress sense and who-gives-a-fuck-what-you-think makes him Prime Italian Stallion. Gucci’s collaboration with one of Italy’s most prolific creative minds is nothing short of amazing.

Created by both Frida Giannini and Lapo Elkann, the personalised luxury sartorial service within Gucci’s MADE TO MEASURE program encompasses menswear, womenswear and accessories. While the men’s collection is the dominant majority, the women’s collection is incredibly feminine and sexy- overall, it’s Lapo’s interpretation of style and sophistication in concert with Gucci’s tradition for luxury couture and opulence.

Gucci made to measure

Lapo’s wardrobe will launch at Gucci’s Milan, London, Paris, New York, Tokyo and Sao Paulo boutiques. Trained staff (though not full fledged tailors) will assist clients with fabric selection, fittings and final flourishes in a made-to-measure process taking 4 to 6 weeks. Gucci takes classic tailoring and modernises it with fashion-forward details in a collection of 27 looks – 23 for men and 4 for women. Expect striking details like exclusive linings, vests, ties, suspenders and handkerchiefs. More importantly, since Lapo’s wardrobe consists of more than just bespoke suiting, you can get Lapo-inspired made to order leather goods like shoes and accessories.

What to expect

The service provides customisable options with special finishes and details including exclusive and distinctive textiles (over 80) totally 178 different combinations of colours, textures and fabrics (including: tartan wool, stretch cotton gabardine, cashmere corduroy, herringbone tweed, wool mohair and velvet) and that’s just for made to measure suiting. For shirts, there are over 25 textiles allowing for over 60 possible combinations of colours and fabrics. Expect Lapo’s stylish eccentricity with Frida’s sharp attention to detail- it’s style with a very personal point of view so this spring summer capsule launch is rather polarising- you either love it like I do, or if you hate Italian dandyism, you’d hate it.

In terms of tailoring, there are two distinct silhouettes: the single breasted comes with rounded, slightly roped shoulders while the double-breasted comes with equestrian detailing. The accents is where Lapo’s wardrobe will find fans within the #menswear community- wonderfully intricate details like decorative turqoise silk threading for contrast, hand stitching and handsewn buttonholes – if there was an Italian answer to Tom Ford suiting, this is it.

The jackets all feature a cut which accentuates the back, creating a visually “v” shape torso that most men bust ourselves at the gym trying to accomplish. A slightly hedonist internal label comes with each creation for your name, date of creation and garment’s city of origin. The jacket linings provide the final coup de grace- a series of printed silks with never before reproduced patterns from the Gucci archive. Coordinated silk trim matching the foulard linings on collars and double cuffs complete the look while the pants return to classical suiting with high waisted pants, slim lines and very tasteful execution of the much maligned pleats. Built in belting, button up cuffs and buttons for suspenders bring the best traditions of bespoke tailoring to made to measure.

For madame

Two day suits and two tuxedos reflecting the sensuous feminine aspects of menswear staples. Sensual cuts featuring plunging neckline exposing the decolletage, emphasized waistline and broader shoulders in either sharp or rounded cuts greet Monsieur’s female counterpart. Overall, the entire capsule collection is quite complete and dare I say, something never before attempted. Perhaps it’s poetic that Lapo and Gucci are the first travellers to ‘virgin’ territory.