In The Book of the Courtier, Baldassare Castiglione defines Sprezzatura as “a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it”. In essence, it’s purpose was to heighten the perception of the talents of a courtier in accomplishing difficult tasks with the appearance of ease. The modern definition in the Oxford dictionary however, defines it as “studied carelessness”. In the sartorial arena, The Monsieur classifies the practice as “the art of looking as if you haven’t tried too hard to look that good”.

Gabriele Pasini SS2015 defines Sprezzatura

The Objective: The perception that your looks are the result of natural taste and style.

Working with master artisans of heritage Neapolitan tailoring, Gabriele Pasini developed a unique approach to menswear design, incorporating barely perceptible imperfections which imbue his blazers the sort of studied nonchalance which Castiglione himself would be proud. Counting the likes of Cesare Attolini in his collaborative efforts over the years, Gabriele Pasini’s soft shapes and almost living lapel rolls best embody the the traditional craftsmanship which make Italian suiting the snug, fashionable fit for the body. For the 86th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, Gabriele Pasini SS2015 debuts a collection of basic black and whites in various patterns, textures and geometries with a full assortment of tailored knitwear, jackets, suiting and casual menswear.

How to Express Studied Nonchalance

1. Stand Out from the herd

Gabriele Pasini takes the regular large glen plaid check and adds a dash of yellow accents. Black trousers keep the look grounded while large houndstooth patterns on contrast brown scarf and shirt keep the patterns striking yet subdued. It is the visual equivalent of the time Sir Noel Coward wore a dinner jacket to a daytime lunch – he had out-dressed peers like HG Wells and William Somerset Maugham without intending to.

 

2. Avoid being too “put together”

There’s something stuffy when one dresses like an aristocrat. In fact, it’s a little known fact that the boys on Savile Row would rather the provenance of the suit was expressed in the way the suit caressed its owner’s body like a well-seasoned second skin than look as if he was wearing an entirely new suit. In essence, it’s aesthetic confirmation that, “I haven’t shopped in years’ – further confirmation that while you do take pride in your appearance, you make it look like it’s the least of your priorities.

3. Make it look easy 

This whole thing? Nah, I just threw it on.

The biggest crime and one unfortunately promoted by big departmental stores is the scourge of “matchy matchy” neck tie and pocket square gift sets. You want your outfit to say, “I just pulled out the first shirt from the wardrobe.”

4. Careful ignorance

Where did I get this ensemble? I think it was Gabriele Pasini but I can’t remember if this was their 2012 or 2011 collection. It’s virtuous that one never appear to be too knowledgeable of sartorial trends, terminology and application.

5. Evidence of carelessness

Once you can comfortably carry the colourful nuances of a madras jacket with large houndstooth patterns, Pied de Poule prints and graphic floral motifs, it’s time to add an element of unpredictability: consider neon socks with your sombre pinstripe suit the next time you go to the office or if you’ve mastered the basics, try a high manoeuvre and go shirtless under the blazer.

The basic formula for sprezzatura

In summary, a dash of shabbiness, some carelessness, lots of detail (e.g. vintage accessories: an old school Rolex, a weathered scarf, an old Army dress belt, textures and tones) all combined with a clash of formal and casual apparel and you get Gabriele Pasini menswear SS2015. [Shop here]